KATAHDIN Rock Climbing: all you need to know for a fall ascent this season.
That exquisite feeling sitting on the ledge below the Armadillo crack, perched high above Chimney Pond during my first technical climb on Katahdin was something I wanted to box up and share with others. Back then I was a fledgling guide in my mid 20’s with big dreams of climbing all the Katahdin routes. 20 years later, with 53 guided ascents of the Armadillo (yes I keep track) and several repeats of just about every route on the mountain and a few of my own FA’s, the magical lure of the “Great Mountain” keeps me coming back every season to guide and climb with friends. There’s just something about Katahdin that never gets old. And, that perfect cool and crisp time of year has finally returned.
The following is what you need to know about climbing the mountain, specifically the classic rock climbing the Armadillo, as I commonly guide it in one day. I will share details on preparation logistics, gear, approaching the climb,
”dealing” with BSP Rangers, pertinent history and even a few fine details…why y’all pay me the big bucks :)
High on Armadillow with our favorite Canadian Lass
THE KATAHDIN DAY TRIP
The amazing experience starts at the NEW ENGLAND OUTDOOR CENTER on the evening before our ascent for a get to know each out experience, sharing climbing stories over a beverage and dinner at their new Knife Edge Brewery. With photos of Katahdin Massif hanging on the wall, it’s easy for me to talk about the upcoming day, pointing out the approach, climb, summit and logistics. This brewery has an outdoor fire and corn hole so it’s always a fun time.
CAMPING
A short drive gets us to our camping spot with views of the mountain and fingers crossed, a star filled night sky. I make a point to get everyone in bed by 8:00 PM so we can get plenty of rest before our early morning wake up. So, in addition to your climbing kit, which i will share momentarily, make sure to come equipped with whatever sleeping arrangement works best for you, whether tent, car or van :)
ALPINE START
Okay so nobody likes hearing this but we MUST be at the park gate by 4:00 AM. Why you ask? Because everyone and their mother has Katahdin on their list of summer and fall hikes and climbs. Most guided ascents are not planned months in advance so getting a parking pass for Roaring Brook Campground (where we need to park for climbing) are all taken, so we have to be in line, on time, no questions asked, in order to get one of their handful of open spaces. This strategy works.
Alpine start with the Boston Boys
While we wait in line its time for a classy backcountry tailgate parking with endless pour over coffee, fresh cooked breakfast for all day climbing champions, and packing our backpacks for the epic adventure ahead. There are privys available for your bathroom needs and the Katahdin comes into view as the sun begins to rise…
Sunrise view of the Great Mountain - Katahdin
CLIMBING GEAR
As your Katahdin Guide I bring the necessary personal items, plus a climbing rack, rope(s), first aid, water purification navigation, and comms for the entire team. The following is what I expect you will carry to maximize team efficiency and to simply have a grand day on the mountain.
20 liter backpack
hydration bladder or water bottle (one liter minimum)
wide range of high calorie snacks up to 2000 calories
clothing suitable for summer climbing: pant, tee, sun hoody, jacket, socks, approach shoes, brim hat, sunglasses
fall clothing when temps reach 45-55 degrees: mid layer, light puffy, hat, gloves, buff, thermals
climbing gear: helmet, harness, comfortable shoes, chalk bag, belay device, two locking carabiners, 120 cm dyneema sling, two non-locking carabiners, prussik loop and nut tool
The quintessential rule of alpine climbing is light and fast. This translates to bring what is needed to climb and sustain oneself for the experience and basically leave the rest behind. You will enjoy the experience with a lightweight and streamlined back pack carrying the essentials above. With a full liter of water, snacks, climbing gear and fall clothing aforementioned, your pack should never suprass 12-15 lbs.
APPROACH
We park our vehicle and shoulder our backpacks at Roaring Brook Campground at 7:30 AM, hiking 3.3 miles to Chimney Pond. This breathtaking backcountry gem is a destination unto itself, however, this brief pitstop is where we check in with the Ranger and fill out the backcountry climbing form. Usually between 9-9:30 AM we venture into no man’s land, circumnavigating Chimney Pond for an unlikely climbing trail - a drainage that leads more or less all the way to the base of our climb. But, there is a lot of wild 3rd to 5th class terrain ahead and this is the crux of the day - just getting to our climb.
Looking up at the towering Armadillo Buttress
After the pond, drainage and good old Maine puckahbrush, we have arrived at this vantage point. With the Armadillo looming above, we gear up to climb two easy fifth class pitches in our approach shoes to regain the upper drainage. Some climbers bypass this section to the left by hiking unroped on what I call a vertical bushwhack. I have done this once and I am 99.9% certain I will not being doing it a second time.
These two pitches go quickly and we continue hiking in the upper drainage unroped, except for two short roped sections, 95% of the approach is unroped or spotted terrain.
THE CLIMB
Side perspective of the Armadillo
There it is, the Armadillo as seen from the gully approach. It almost looks like a totem pole resting against the cliff. From here we rope up for the traverse to the base of the climb - a tall right facing corner/chimney feature with cracks and edges for moderate climbing. At this point, we relax for a while letting the sweat dry, eat, drink and refocus our effort on five pitches of rock climbing. As a professional climbing guide, my job is to create high value experiences for my guests. One way I do this on the Armadillo is to break up the traditional three pitches into five in order to communicate effectively. I want to see and hear you along the way. Sometimes for coaching, sometimes for picture and video taking, and this practice ensure confidence and comfort for all. The Armadillo is an absolute classic alpine objective at a world class standard, and it is my pleasure to make the experience a delight, even though it will likely kick your butt!
This is the point when climbers realize just how much terrain they have climbed and how much lay ahead!
The Armadillo Rock Climb eventually arrives at place were many recreational climbers will unrope and solo, or simul climb 500’ to the Knife Edge Ridge. I prefer to stay roped up and continue the climb using short rope and short pitch techniques, which is efficient methods for climbing short 3rd to 5th class sections of alpine rock with high exposure. This terrain lake a rib extending from a spine. If the Knife Edge Ridge is Katahdin’s spine, the Armadillo is one of it’s ribs, of which there are many!
After gaining the ridge we completely remove and repack our climbing gear and walk a quarter mile to Katahdin’s summit, Baxter Peak!!
A BIG climbing goal in the bag for former Northern Vertical guest Krystal Tavares, who now co-leads NV’s Women’s Climbing adventures.
From here we still have a solid five miles of rock hopping and four thousand feet to descend. The typical trail of choice is the Saddle, which leads two miles to Chimney Pond so we can sign out with the Ranger and drink up that enchanting view one last time before heading back to the vehicle.
What a day. At 43 years old I can’t believe how many times I have stepped foot atop Katahdin let alone guide it. It’s such a treat of life and, if you are reading, I hope to share it with your down the road. Speaking of, the park closes October 15th, so be in touch soon if you have Katahdin in your sights this season.
p.s. I nearly forgot to mention. Katahdin has some of the most splendid, clean and refreshing natural drinking water I have experienced. These water sources are all over the mountain, which is why a single liter bottle will sufficer!
~Ryan